There are plenty ofВ chain guides to choose from with some of our favorite brands like OneUp Components, E*Thirteen, and MRP that give you the option to either assemble your chain guide with or without a bash guard. If you were to come up short on a jump, or land directly on top of a tall rock, the bash guard is there to protect your drivetrain and keep your bike rolling.

The chain ring is usually the lowest hanging component of the bike between your front and rear wheel and is what comes in contact with the ground when you do '50-50 case' something on the trail. The bash guard lives right on the backside of the chain ring and is there to protect both the chain and chain ring from potential strikes to the bottom of the bike. The chainВ will be getting thrown in every direction between the chainring and the cassette, but as long as the chain guide is doing its job, you can keep putting out power.ДЄnotherВ major benefit to running a chain guide is having the optionВ of mounting a bash guard. The chain guide's job is to keep the chain inline with the teethВ on the chainring so that as you continue pedaling, the chain will continue to fall in to place. When you are flying through rough sections of trail, the chain will jump up and down and can sometimes work its way off the chainring. Mounting a chain guide on your mountain bike gives you an extra sense of security, hopefully ensuring that you won't ever drop your chain. There are a few different ways to keep the chain running smoothly on the chain ring, mounting a chain guide being one of them, and we are here to walk you through if that makes sense for you and your mountain bike. The chainВ could jam in between the chain ring and the frame causing you to crash or the chain could scratch and damage your bike. Should You Mount a Chain Guide on Your Mountain Bike?Дropping your chain off of the chain ring when you are out on the trail is never a good thing.

Padded / Protective Short Liners / Chamois.

Drop-bar Hydraulic Brake / Shift Levers.

I don't change chain rings on a shifty bike unless I've hurt myself at least once when the chain comes off. I think it's just a way of doing things and isn't either right or wrong.

I may end up needing a cassette too, and in the past I probably would have replaced both at once, but since I have the wear indicator, I thought I'd give it a try. I just discovered that my 9-speed road bike suddenly has chain wear that shows on the wear indicator at 0.5 but not at 0.75, so I'm going to get a new chain first and see what happens before I change the cassette.

Cheap maybe, but if you replace your chain in time, before it wears the other parts down, it works, just as it might work on a bike with gears. I tend to try the chain first to see if I can get away with it, then move to the cog, then go to the chain ring as a last resort. So, yeah, you might well change them all at once, if that's the way you do things, and many people do. The site doesn't always show new posts in bold for me, but I tend to trust it like it does. A new chain on a cassette that should have been changed makes some ugly noises too. Speaking as a chump who rides only bikes with shifters, why wouldn't you replace the cog and chainring on a SS/fixie when you replaced the chain, especially if the chain has measurably stretched? You might be able to get away with a chain-only change if you are derailleured up because the chain wears over multiple cogs and chainrings, which is obviously not the case on SS/fixie set-ups. I made sure to tighten the chain ring bolts before i put on the new chain. Bike was quiet before the new chain and nothing else changed, so it's gotta be the tension, cog, or chain ring. The old one was stretched to at least 1.0 on the chain checker.

I had to re position the wheel when I put the new chain on. Sounds like you maybe just need to do the opposite, since it's a new chain. Your rear cog doesn't look worn out to me.Д«ack when my commute was shorter and flatter, as my fixed gear's chain would wear, I'd bump the wheel back once or twice by a fraction of an inch to maintain chain tension, before finally replacing it. Did you remove the wheel when you replaced the chain? I'd also check to see if the chainring bolts needed a quarter turn. To account for it, I'd just need to move the rear wheel forward in the dropout a tiny bit, taking care to make sure it is centered. My guess is that the frame is flexing a tiny bit when you stand on the pedals, increasing the chain tension.

Sound bike chain too long